Get Your Sicilian Soul Food On: 18th Avenue Style

About once a year or so Gothamist makes a pilgrimage to Bensonhurst’s 18th Avenue for some Sicilian soul food. A little over 15 years ago, 18th Avenue between Bay Ridge Parkway and McDonald Avenue was dubbed "Cristoforo Colombo Boulevard." While that entire length may have been named in honor of the Italian explorer, the stretch where we usually explore the wonders of Southern Italian food lies between between Bay Ridge Parkway and 65 Street.

Depending on our hunger level we browse the wonderful markets offering all manner of cheeses and fresh salumi before grabbing a bite. But after a 2-hour subway ride sometimes one needs to eat immediately, which is exactly why we headed to Gino’s Focacceria after getting off the N train last week. At first glance the joint looks like a pizzeria, but it offers a broad range of Sicilian grandma food: stuffed artichokes, seafood salad, stuffed mushrooms, peppers and eggs, etc.

Despite its vast menu, we almost always get the same thing at Gino’s: a sandwich. And we’re not talking a mere meatball hero either. Our go-to order is either a vastedda special (left) or a panelle special. Of course if a friend has come along for the ride, we invariably order both. As you can see, the tops of the seeded rolls have been scooped out – not to cut down on carbs – but to cram even more ingredients into these gutbusters.

And just what are these ingredients? In the case of the vastedda, the meat barely peeking out from underneath a blanket of creamy ricotta and shards of parmesan is calf spleen. When asked if she’d ever had one the waitress responded, “Not really, I don’t like the sound of it.” Whether you like the sound of it or not, the slightly spongy, funky meat is actually quite tasty. If you’re a vegetarian or just don’t do organ meats, then go for the panelle. It’s a fried chickpea – or ceci as the Sicilians call it – fritter given the same cheesy treatment.

Afterwards stop in at Villabate Pasticceria and ogle the cannoli along with some of the city’s prettiest looking pastries. A Bensonhurst voyage is never complete without a stop at Trunzo Brothers, an old-school salumeria and meat market. This time around we grabbed a loaf of prosciutto bread and some braided fresh mozzarella. Since it was still January we also copped a free calendar that features Christ and the 12 Apostles as well as carcass maps for beef and pork. It truly doesn’t get much more Sicilian than that folks.

Gino's Focacceria, 71-18 18th Ave., Bensonhurst, 718-232-9073
Villabate Pasticceria, 71-17 18th Ave., Bensonhurst, 718-331-8430
Trunzo Brothers, 68-02 18th Avenue, Bensonhurst, 718-331-2111

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By Joe DiStefano in Food on January 24, 2008 2:20 PM

Comments [rss]

principessa38

GINOS where they answer the phone by saying "Restaurant"! Some of my best memories are in this place. I spent close to 2 years of my life in and out of this place. Ive tried it all and miss it like crazy. Everything in there is great but my favorite was always Penne a la vodka with chicken or the seafood salad. No doubt about it this place is worth it. If you are in the mood for a riceball make it a special. So good that I brought riceballs back home to Florida!

youmakemecynical

yes, it is an old post, but i still had to comment...

1. you can take the d to 18th ave, much faster

2. after literally just getting back from sicily, NONE of that is truly sicilan. dumb italian americans who think heavy foods are really italian drive me mental. chicken parm is AMERICAN!! and all that cheese, not sicialian.

sicilans use eggplant. and thursday was actually a holiday in sicily so they ate meatballs. and arancini (which joes happens to make, but bigger than in sicily).

prosciutto bread (or pane can lard) is sicilian so yay! one bit of truth.

and sicilans use pan doro, semolina bread, and dont scoop it out. go to italy and see if a panino will ever have that much inside. i am guessing the answer will be no.

if you want to make your own simple sicilian fare, try peppers and potatoes with onions, simple and a true contorni.

or try flying to catania where you can also see etna. and gain a bit of culture.

calypsojpants

That looks delicious....

You can find similar awesome pannelle specials, plus potato croquettes, rice balls, and other good sicilian food at Fernando's Foccaceria in Carroll Gardens or Joe's of Avenue U...