Camera in the Kitchen: Jimmy's No. 43

It's always disappointing to go to a restaurant you immediately fall in love with for the atmosphere and the wide-ranging beer list, and walk away a bit let down by the food. At Jimmy's No. 43 in the East Village, the subterranean cavernous restaurant with a generous draught list of international beers, the menu changes from day to day to include local ingredients and showcase what is in season. There is a long narrow bar when you arrive, and the restaurant expands further back than you may initially think. Lit with candles and tables for parties of one, two, or up to a family style table for eight, the space is comfortable with a busy, but mellow sound level.

Our waitress immediately brought over a bowl of delicious and slightly-sweet brioche bread as we hemmed and hawed over the handwritten menu. Our eyes took note of the gold rush apple and sheep's milk camembert risotto as well as the slow-roasted duck leg with parsnips, beets, and orange jus--two dishes for sharing. The risotto was subtle, and a bit too al dente for our taste, the squares of apple undercaramelized and just too raw. The duck leg was tender and complemented the sweetness of parsnip and tartness of pickled beet in a precise way, but portions were smaller than expected and left us picking a bit at the bone.

There are oft musical appearances by myriad groups--from an underground ukulele scene or swing bands, so while our palates are still hungering for a bit more than we received when we walked today, the atmosphere and room offered so many pleasantries of its own that we'd probably go back--for the beers, and with the hope that we'd hit upon more memorable dishes, and the possibility of a tune or two.

Jimmy's No. 43 is located at 43 E. 7th Street (near 2nd Avenue), downstairs. 212-982-3006.