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January 9, 2008

Wednesday Food News: Early Edition

010908backforty.jpgPaul Adams goes to Back Forty (pictured) for the NY Sun this week. “The restaurant takes its focus on farm-to-table cuisine almost to the point of self-parody,” he says. Back Forty could benefit more by the presence of Peter Hoffman (the chef and owner) in the kitchen, not so much at the greenmarket, says Adams.

This week in the Times, Bruni one-stars Barbuto. He loves the roasted chicken, so much so that he basically reviewed the restaurant because of it: “this restaurant has developed a track record with roasted chicken so impressive that it’s arguably cause for scientific study… It’s also cause for bewilderment, because so much else about Barbuto is so much less reliable.” Says neither the cooking (roast chicken excepted) nor the service is consistent. Stick to the ragus if you’re having pasta and order beef over duck or pork.

Also in the Times, Peter Meehan goes to Seymour Burton in the East Village for $25 and Under. Says the burgers “occasionally flirt with greatness,” and “the extra-relaxed vibe made it an ideal holiday season respite and refueling spot.” The decor isn’t quite finished yet, and it's perhaps a bit pricier than it could be, but Meehan finds the restaurant worth a visit.

Alan Richman visits Grayz for Bloomberg News. Says “You’ll like the space… you’ll love the virtuosity of several dishes… you won’t love the portions (small), the prices (astonishing) or the jumble of disparate dishes (baffling).” He loves the braised short ribs, says the small plates are a disappointment, and that you should sit upstairs if possible.

Restaurant Girl one and a half stars the Manhattan outpost of Lunetta. Set in the former Mayrose Diner space, “Too many of [chef Adam] Shepard’s dishes fare better in Brooklyn,” she says. She loves the ricotta and the duck agnolotti, but says the entrees overall are inconsistent. Likes the desserts, though.

In other reviews, Ryan Sutton is at Pop Burger and Dovetail; Sietsema goes to Stari Most and Ukus in Astoria; and Tables for Two visits Peri Ela. In the blogs, Mona’s Apple goes to Wallse; Gastrochic is at Momofuku Ssam Bar (scroll down); Gael Greene goes to Solex; and NYC Nosh is at Zabb Queens (scroll down).

Photo of Back Forty by Youngna Park.

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