Now, Isn't That Special?: Jimmy's Lamb Riblets

Thanks to a small roster of beers curated by owner Jimmy Carbone, Jimmy’s No. 43 has always been high on our list when we’re looking to slake our thirst.

Lately we’ve come to realize that there’s much more to this subterranean spot than just beer. Thanks to the addition of Philip Kirschen-Clark, the former fish chef at wd-50, Jimmy’s is putting the gastro in gastropub. A while back, we had some roasted shishito peppers with sea salt. When asked to pair a beer with the slightly charred bright green hot peppers, the bartender suggested the Hitachino Nest White ale. This coriander-laced Japanese white ale was perfect for balancing the growing, but by no means unpleasant, heat of the peppers.

On our next visit, we took the advice of a waitress who we've taken to calling the Crossword Queen of East 7 St., and ordered a special of slow-roasted lamb riblets. We seldom pass up slow-roasted lamb, but when she called it the “Marvin Gaye of meats,” we could hardly keep from drooling.

The meaty quintet landed on the bar looking sexy as hell. The burnished skin was slicked with lamb fat and the whole affair was accompanied by salsify, bosc pear, fennel puree and a dollop of peppadew marmalade. As for the taste, let’s just say it was an ovine orgy of sumptuous flesh so tender that it could have been eaten with a spoon. Kirschen-Clark should venture out to Rego Park to show the cooks at the nabe's dozen or so Uzbek kebab joints specializing in lamb how better to practice their craft.

Further inquiry revealed that Jimmy's lamb comes from 3-Corner Field Farm, a renowned producer of grass-fed lamb. Gothamist also tried three other cuts that night: rich lamb tongue, creamy fried brains and veal cheeks. We like to think of the lamb tongue as the Rick James of meats, but in a good way.

Jimmy's No. 43, 43 E. 7 St., 212-982-3006