Does Where You Eat Make You More Exciting?

balogoblkgrn.jpgBon Appétit , in an attempt to appeal to a broader, younger, and theoretically "hipper" audience, has recently revamped its logo. Taunting came in full force, via Grub Street, who concluded, "[t]he truth is that Bon Appétit will never be any hipper or friskier than it is, because no magazine about upscale entertaining can ever speak to people that don’t have big houses and plenty of time on their hands."

Adam Roberts, the Amateur Gourmet, took offense at Ozersky's ultimate message, that "Bon Appétit is for people who eat in," and that eating in is just nearly not as exciting than eating out. He concedes that, despite the fact that there will rarely, if ever, be celebrities dining next to him at his kitchen table, that cooking at home is by far more rewarding. He goes on to describe the contrast between dining in and dining out:

Home cooked food at its best is infinitely more intimate, infinitely more loving than anything you can get at a restaurant and that's as it should be: at the end of the day restaurants are businesses, they want your money. A home cook, on the other hand, just wants to make you happy.

And that's why the recipe blogs I read, which comprise 90% of the food blogs out there, feel so sunny and warm and why the restaurant industry blogs that I read often feel so hostile and snarky. These are two worlds: the world of eating in, and the world of eating out.

Josh at Grub Street quickly penned a response to clarify, and to defend the home cook. "Far from considering 'people who eat in' boring, we actively envy them. We'd much rather chatter with loved ones over a steaming cassoulet than stand at the sink eating last night's porchetta out of a baggie." That said, he does think that Bon Appétit has to keep up with the "very fast-moving food scene" in order to stay competitive.

We think both gentlemen have valid points, and that good food coverage should straddle both worlds, especially in New York where dining out is, for many, a daily event. Then again, not all New Yorkers are willing, able, or interested in eating out all the time. Just look at Cathy of Not Eating Out in New York. So what do you think? Do food magazines/press/blogs have to appeal to both ends of the spectrum to succeed among younger readers? Is eating out always more exciting than eating in?

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Comments (10) [rss]

An issue with eating out in NYC - when you follow the food scene - is actually being able to get a table at the new talked-about joint. I find myself preferring to eat home to avoid the madness or eating at the old, not glamorous but reliable standbys.

both are fun. depends on your mood i suppose. i don't understand what the conflict is here, however. sometimes you want to cook for yourself, sometimes you don't. almond joy has nuts, mounds don't.

Also, the two practices stimulate each other. If you learn how to cook it helps you understand what you are being served in a restaurant. And going out exposes you to new cuisines, dishes, and ingredients (as opposed to reading a recipe, slapping it together, and having no idea whether you did it right or not.)

Personally, I buy cooking magazines and cookbooks, but rely on internet chatter for my restaurant info.

I think they just want their food porn to become as "addictive" as regular porn. They don't care where you eat or if you eat at all. they just want you to buy their magazine and feel like you're somehow more connected to the foodie scene (i.E: their advertizers ) Don't be a pawn of this tasty, yet stylish conspiracy: Eat what you like to eat and eat where you like to eat and let some other schmuck do the worrying.

@sony

i don't really agree with that. i mean, reviews are what drive me (yes i know i am so common) to restaurants. i want one, at least one, good review before i even bother to try it.

imo, it's a lot rarer for someone to take the time to do a good review of your restaurant than one to do a bad review. I'll leave the first or second reviews to the food explorers.

as far as eating in is concerned, it's completely different and in no way relevant to the bitching that happens on food sites (as we have in chicago). I'd say it's more of an argument over ingredients and recipes than anythings else; such is the the for restaurants.

wait, i screwed up that last paragraph.

i meant to say that it's more of an argument over recipes and ingredients than it is ambiance or service.

i dunno, it's just different let me get back to you all i am drunk.

of course home cuisine must be covered equally. Today, you aren't "hip" if you can't pull of an elegant dinner party.

Anyone can go out to a trendy restaurant. It's quite another thing to be able to prepare a memorable meal yourself.

Besides, the proliferation of whole foods and trader joes speaks louder as to the importance of home cooking louder than any article ever could.

of course home cuisine must be covered equally. Today, you aren't "hip" if you can't pull of an elegant dinner party.

Anyone can go out to a trendy restaurant. It's quite another thing to be able to prepare a memorable meal yourself.

Besides, the proliferation of whole foods and trader joes speaks louder as to the importance of home cooking louder than any article ever could.

of course home cuisine must be covered equally. Today, you aren't "hip" if you can't pull of an elegant dinner party.

Anyone can go out to a trendy restaurant. It's quite another thing to be able to prepare a memorable meal yourself.

Besides, the proliferation of whole foods and trader joes speaks louder as to the importance of home cooking louder than any article ever could.

of course home cuisine must be covered equally. Today, you aren't "hip" if you can't pull of an elegant dinner party.

Anyone can go out to a trendy restaurant. It's quite another thing to be able to prepare a memorable meal yourself.

Besides, the proliferation of whole foods and trader joes speaks louder as to the importance of home cooking louder than any article ever could.

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