Wednesday Food News: Early Edition

This week in the Times, Bruni three stars Fiamma and rates it a top pick. Says that the restaurant is not, by any means, classically Italian, but “when a restaurant turns out this many dishes that make you stop mid-chew, nudge a companion and nod your head vigorously—because you’re excited; because you need to start working off the calories any way you can—it needn’t worry about fitting into a tidy box.”

Also in the Times, Peter Meehan goes to Back Forty for $25 and Under. Brought to us by Peter Hoffman, also chef and owner of Savoy, the restaurant doesn’t take itself quite as seriously as it’s counterpart, says Meehan. He thinks the restaurant promises “satisfaction, now ‘wow’ value,” and that it’s learning to live up to that promise. Portions are too small, though.

Moira Hodgson visits Irving Mill for the Observer, says it feels like Gramercy Tavern back in the ‘90’s. (It also features a former chef from that restaurant, John Schaefer.) Says that “the first night I ate there I was bowled over by the food,” and equally impressed with the wine list and the service. Other nights weren’t quite so impressive, though.

Alan Richman goes to Primehouse NY for Bloomberg News, where the bull who fathered the steak you eat is actually named Prime, and lives on a farm in Kentucky. The décor is “corporate and nondescript,” but the meat “gorgeous, consistent and beefy.” He doesn’t much care for the sides, but likes the crab cake appetizer and the wine list.

In the Daily News, Restaurant Girl gives Astoria’s Athens Tavern one and a half stars. Says the starters aren’t that great, and there are definite inconsistencies. What makes it worth the trip? “You go to Athens Tavern for the whole baked fish stuffed with wild greens,” says Freeman.

In other reviews, Tables for Two visits Stonehome Wine Bar, Sietsema goes to Walima, and Ryan Sutton is at Dell’Amina and Lunetta. In the blogs, NYC Nosh goes to Bun Soho, Andrea Strong is at Back Forty, A Hamburger Today goes to Coals, Off the Broiler is at Porter House, and Gael Greene has the best restaurants for seduction.