Not Your Grandma's Dinner Theater

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If the ghosts of Timothy Leary and Nam June Paik collaborated with Kraftwerk and some dancers to make dinner theater aboard a spaceship to The Pleiades, it might feel something like OutMigration, the immersive dining/video/performance experience happening at Williamsburg’s Monkeytown through Sunday. $70 gets you an elaborate 12-course tasting menu, with wine pairings, prepared by chef Ryan Jaronik (formerly the executive chef at Boston’s beloved Masa). Before entering the intimate performance/dinner space, our group was cautioned against reading the program to learn what we were eating; the idea was for us to surrender to a bewildering new sensory world without any preconceived notions, man. (Uptight squares and those with food allergies can check the menus here; there are spoilers after the jump.)

Outmigration3.jpg Once inside, the 15 guests sank like decadent Romans into low couches piled high with pillows. On four walls above our heads, animated computer-generated videos were projected, the work of Mogollón, a design studio that’s worked with Fischerspooner and for Absolut, among others. Throughout the 80-minute experience, obscure old torch songs and space-age synthesizer anthems provided the soundtrack for four female dancers, led by Mariangela Lopez, who writhed, leapt and generally freaked out in an swirling kaleidoscope of movement, dressed in futuristic American Apparel tights, and, for the finale, sank to the mirrored floor in a cloud of ruffled tulle. Though verging on chaos, the physicality of the dancers was so rigorously controlled that the work took on attributes of a 21st century Dionysian ritual; early on a rivulet of blood drizzled, Maenad-like, down one dancer’s foot.

Outmigration2.jpgWhat tied the evening together was the food, which kept descending, flying saucer-like, from the hands of jump-suit clad servers. We took the trip on a vegetarian night (there’s one more of those, on Thursday) and were particularly enamored with the dish (pictured above) comprised of fried mac ‘n’cheese, applesauce and the most succulent barbecued seitan this side of Saturn. The pumpkin and goat cheese croquettes, pictured left, were nothing but gooey goodness, and Jaronik’s pecan albondigas with romesco and a sharp manchego was a holy marriage of bold flavors and tasty texture. Less transcendental was the tofu pot pie, which beneath the crispy crust had the consistency of goopy soup and an unremarkable flavor – though that one mundane dish could hardly stop our group from migrating far out of this world.

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(Last photo taken from Monkeytown's website.)

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Comments (8) [rss]

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thanks but no thanks.)

You know, you can get a decent digital camera for $150 these days and take much better food pictures than Gothamist does now.

i don't usually criticize articles but jenchungsbra is right:

why are the pictures of the dancers, in motion, better than the pictures of the food (which is close, easily illuminated by the flash & stationary)?

Ordinarily I wouldn't bother responding to your smug comment simply because of your puerile profile name, but in this case I'd like to point out to everyone that the problem wasn't my camera, which costs more than that, but the fact that I was taking photos during a performance that was very dimly lit for most of the 80 minutes. The photos I took with the flash and adjusted exposure were the best I could do given the lack of light when the food arrived.

Zodak: the lighting kept fluctuating. Most of the pics with the flash were washed out. Cue comments telling me how to use my camera.

One other smug comment; by presenting the food in such a shitty way, you are doing a disservice to this restaurant/bar/performance space/whatever establishment you are reviewing. Those food pics don't exactly make me want to go there. Ever. If I owned this place and saw these pics, I would be pissed! These food pics are almost as bad as that disgusting cab driver/restaurant reviewer who used to be on this site. Was he on strike yesterday?

i don't know about this show. but i have been to monkeytown a couple time. and is always nice. very good food. relaxing.
it's nice to eat, drink, and stfu.

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