Wednesday Food News: Early Edition

This week in the Times, Bruni one-stars Centro Vinoteca. Says of chef Anne Burrell “The woman can fry,” and you’ll be happy with your food provided you choose anything fried, especially those items on the piccolini (small plates) menu. The rest is erractic: “Both on and off the plate, Centro can elate and deflate you.”

Peter Meehan goes to Nusara for Thai in $25 and Under; says the restaurant “belongs on the short but growing list of reliably good Thai restaurants in Queens.” Says items on the menu are consistently good, and “ask for it spicy at Nusara and it will be spicy; ask for exotic and it will be exotic, piping hot and maybe drenched in blood.”

Ryan Sutton visits Times Square’s Omido Sushi for Bloomberg News, where the sushi is good but he hates the techno music. He also goes to Graffiti, another savory/sweet restaurant opened by a pastry chef (Jehangir Mehta, formerly of Jean-Georges). Says “The fare I sampled wasn’t life-changing. It was endearing, though.” He particularly liked the pork buns, scallops and pineapple-and-grape salsa.

In the NY Sun, Paul Adams goes to ceviche bar Crave, says chef Todd Mitgang’s menu is “deeper and less earthbound than I’d feared.” For the most part, he likes what he finds. But stay away from the ceviched mini burgers, served cold.

And Restaurant Girl two-stars BLT Market, Laurent Tourondel’s latest in the Ritz-Carlton. Says it’s a “charmed space” and that she likes it, but that overall “doesn’t raise the bar for a market-driven restaurant”—none of the ingredients particularly stand out.