Wednesday Food News: Early Edition

Bruni visits Park Avenue Autumn this week, giving the seasonal restaurant, which changes name (Park Avenue Spring, Summer, etc.), décor and menu every three months to suit the season, two stars. Says that executive chef Craig Kotesku’s cooking here is much more interesting than at Quality Meats, the other restaurant he oversees. “Park Avenue Look-at-the-Weather-and-Fill-In-The-Blank has more than a striking gimmick,” he says. “It also has some terrific food.”

In Dining Briefs, Julia Moskin goes to Market Table in the old Shopsin’s space, where chef Mike Price “gives good menu.” She does find “flat notes,” though-doesn’t like the nicoise salad. Peter Meehan goes to Five Guys Famous Burgers and Fries, finds the burgers firm, nearly dry, and lacking in flavor. Likes the fries, though.

Ryan Sutton visits Fiamma for Bloomberg News, says don’t go expecting traditional Italian but that “It’s a place for foodies to contemplate and consume intricate creations.” He also goes to Primehouse, in the old Park Avenue Country Club location. Finds the sirloin “remarkable” and the Kentucky rib-eye “just as good.”

Paul Adams goes to Casellula, where cheese is a focus of the menu. Service is way too slow, “But if you’re psychologically prepared for a leisurely three-hour parade of treats, Casellula can be a thrilling destination—for anyone, but especially for us cheese aficionados,” he says.

And Restaurant Girl visits Los Dados for the Daily News, gives the restaurant one star. Calls it “Meatpacking Mexican, overpriced plates in designer sizes” and says that “the menu hits as many low marks as it does high ones,” going particularly low with the shrimp ceviche, halibut tacos and chicken quesadillas. As for dessert, the only way to go is with churros, says Freeman.