This week in the Times, Bruni goes to Peter Luger, gives the restaurant two stars—a drop from the three awarded it by Ruth Reichl previously. Says “no other restaurant serves a porterhouse so breakthtaking.” But he also says that the restaurant is inconsistent, service ranges from gruff to hostile, and the winelist needs an upgrade.

Also in the Times, Peter Meehan visits Justin Timberlake’s Southern Hospitality for $25 and Under. Loves the baby back ribs, whose “meat is tug-off-the-bone tender.” The rest is not so memorable, he says, and the restaurant crowded, loud and filled with tv’s and neon signs.

Alan Richman goes to Il Mulino for Bloomberg News, says the restaurant presents a style of Italian cuisine that is “oversized, oversauced, and overcooked” yet “nothing tastes Italian. The food is pure Americana.” Which would be fine, he says, if it were properly cooked and not overpriced. Ouch.

Paul Adams visits Soto for the NY Sun, says “what makes Soto special is the rest of the menu [besides the sushi].” Loves the whole deep-fried flounder that you eat with your fingers. But says “the shoddiness of the restaurant’s service is baffling,” given the quality of the food.

In the Daily News, Restaurant Girl goes to Elio’s for old-school Italian, awards the restaurant two and a half stars. Veal meatballs are, er, “pudgy” but also “juicy and satisfying.” Overall, “why should [the owners] change a thing when customers can’t seem to get enough?”