Wednesday Food News: Early Edition
This week in the Times, Bruni one-stars “freestyle” Latin restaurant Rayuela on the LES. Says, “it’s a beautiful, fascinating, frustrating place, its cosmetic showiness echoed by dishes that are also all over the map, in terms of their appeal as well as their geographic and ethnic tethers.” He loves the tuna relleno, the arraz con pollo, and the lobster ceviche, and also the cocktails and the house-made bread.
Also in the Times, Peter Meehan goes to Ramen Setagaya for $25 and Under. The East Village restaurant is the first U.S. location of the popular Japanese chain. He loves the noodles for their “resiliency and chew,” but finds the broth and toppings a bit “restrained.”
In the Post, Cuozzo stops by Wakiya in the Gramcercy Hotel. Finds “gentle prices” at a place reported elsewhere to be hugely expensive. Says the restaurant is “probably terrific” but he’s not sure since his meal there was arranged by publicists. Um, okay.
Alan Richman goes to Soto in the West Village for sushi. Is not impressed with the minimalist design (it's so minimal that there’s a blank sign outside). Says of the sushi: “It’s pretty good. It’s expensive.” But of the hot and cold dishes on the menu: “Dazzling, ingenious.” Especially the tempura, and any dish with sea urchin.
In the NY Sun, Paul Adams also reviews Rayuela. Finds the menu “wide-ranging and impressively large,” the ceviche “good if not exceptional,” and loves the roast pork and duck breast. Says the desserts are disappointing.
