Wednesday Food News: Early Edition

This week in the Times, Bruni Bruni visits Top Chef winner Harold Dieterle’s Perilla. Finds it “earnest, endearing, and just a bit of a snooze,” and awards the restaurant one star. Sees more of Deiterle and partner Alicia Noscenzo’s past at The Harrison in the restaurant (friendly service, cozy atmosphere, reasonable prices) than in his past on Top Chef. But he finds some “primness” at Perilla, along with “scattered errors of judgement.” Doesn’t much like the desserts, either.

Peter Meehan goes to newly renovated Kabab Café in Astoria for $25 and Under. Loves the kofte kebabs, the lamb with pomegranate and the mezze (small tasting dishes). Says overall, the Egyptian restaurant is a “queer, homey and charming stew, not pining for acceptance or brimming with enlightened service. Anyone who knows it wouldn’t have it any other way.”

In the NY Sun, Paul Adams visits pub Nelson Blue for cuisine from New Zealand. Says if you get there too early or too late, you may have to fight the drinkers crowding the bar for a table at which to eat. It’s worth the struggle, though –he loves the venison saugsage, steamed mussels and chili salt squid, also the roast pork on a skewer. Also likes the desserts, the imported Steinlager beer, and the list of New Zealand wines.

And Alan Richman goes to Balthazar for Bloomberg News, throws down: “Balthazar is the most satisfying brasserie on Earth,” he says. “The likelihood of getting an agreeable meal is far greater at Balthazar than at any of the rapidly declining collection of Paris brasseries I’ve patronized in recent years.” He does warn to stay away from any dishes that sound American (roasted cod, for example) and the plats du jour. Loves the atmosphere and the service.