Wednesday Food News: Early Edition

Bruni visits the recently reopened Provence (now owned and run by Cookshop & Five Points’ Marc Meyer and Vicki Freeman), awards the restaurant one star. He likes the minimal changes they’ve made to the design; the food, not so much: “Provence’s is inconsistent and dull,” he says. He does like the wine and the cheese selection though.

Also in the Times, Peter Meehan goes to Grand Sichuan East Village for $25 and Under. Says, “Of the dishes that will get you sweating like you’re in a sauna, the best is sliced fish with spicy sauce soup.” He also loves the Sichuan dan dan noodles and sliced pork with special sauce.

In the Post, Cuozzo’s happy that three new restaurants “that looked like flops on paper have turned out to be terrific—a miracle after a long drought,” he says. The restaurants? Mediterranean-American Amalia on West 55th, with chef Ivy Stark in the kitchen; FR.OG, on Spring Street, with French/French-influenced food cooked by Didier Virot; and Insieme, on Seventh Ave in midtown, serving chef Marco Canora’s Italian.

Ryan Sutton visits Monkey Bar and Varietal for Bloomberg News, asks “Can a restaurant return from the dead?” Both have recently been overhauled. Sutton calls Monkey Bar, “the Keith Richards of restaurants” saying that “alcohol is a key part of the experience” and of its long life. He does seem to like chef Patricia Yeo’s Asian inspired menu. And Varietal? Sutton likes Wayne Nish’s greatly simplified menu, too. Three courses are $48, the food is good, and the wine selection still outstanding.

In the NY Sun, Paul Adams also pays a visit to Insieme. Doesn’t love the décor, but says “the new restaurant is worth a trip.” Loves the fritto misto, risotto and the lamb. Also the eclectic wine list.