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This week Bruni visits Katz's Delicatessen, awards the LES institution one star. Calls its pastrami sandwich "one of the best in the land" and Katz’s itself "the king of New York delis." He doesn't like the potato knish, the latkes or the desserts, but overall loves the institution—don’t we all? —that is Katz’s.
Also in the Times, Peter Meehan goes to Lucky Eight in Brooklyn's Chinatown for $25 and Under. He recommends the dinner menu over lunch choices or build-your-own-soup menu, and says that the restaurant’s stir-fry, called 'Pride of Lucky Eight,' is "the finest stir-fried dish I’ve ever encountered."
In the NY Sun, Paul Adams visits Jeffrey Chodorow's Wild Salmon. Finds salmon itself "hard to muster patience for" but here he likes it, especially the sockeye. The sauces he can do without: they're "complicated, unhelpfully strong concoctions," he says. Also finds the rest of the menu hit or miss: sablefish oversalted, black cod disappointing.
And Steve Cuozzo at the Post daringly takes on the Shake Shack and calls it "the most overrated burger in New York." He asks himself two extremely pointed questions: "What compels New Yorkers to stand in Soviet-style, multiple lines under a broiling sun to procure a hamburger that’s an also-ran at best? What’s the appeal of tiny beef patties most customers consume in five minutes, thanks to their famished state after waiting longer than they would at an airport?" Go ask someone in line, perhaps.
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Of all the grand inanities in this city, the biggest is that line to the Shake Shack. Why on EARTH would you stand in line for that particular hamburger?
I think Cuozzo did ask someone on line. He asked how long was he waiting and then the guy gave a comment on the food. I hope the southerners who got duped into waiting on that line learned their lesson and give them another reason to hate NYC.
Speaking of delis, I would be remiss to comment about the Second Ave Deli, where a CHASE branch now stands.
"You can't stop progress!"
tom - cause they're awesome.
Bruni's line about Katz's is a classic:
"It’s been around, after all, since 1888. That’s longer than Cindy Adams."
Shake Shack is frighteningly mediocre. It just goes to show you how people are sheep and will eat any old crap.
someone was paid to review Katz's? people need to be told this place exists? does this seem strange to me only
disappointed that Meehan doesn't note the inhumane (and often illegal) shark fin fishing methods in China. truly disgusting.
very true, same with the production of Foie Gras.
I'm disappointed he didn't mention that.
I don't think the long lines at Shake Shack is attributed solely on the taste of the burger. You have to also take into account the surroundings - a nice, urban park where you can sit as long as you please- and the affordable price. A combination of all three factors provides the tipping point for Shake Shack's success.
In a city where people don't think twice about renting a $1600/mo. for a small studio (where that could get you a spacious 3 bedroom in the rest of the country), the value of Shake Shack is a result of living in New York City: we lack the space to grill our own burger in some spacious suburban backyard. The price we pay for our version of this experience is standing on a long line in exchange for some cheapish grub and nice atmosphere outside our little apartments.
but it's not even a grill but on a griddle.
I would have as much enjoyment from a Banh mi sandwich to go and eat it at the pier.
They make banh mi sandwichs for you to assemble at home if you want with all the fixins.
ah, forget it. more power to danny meyer.
"Of all the grand inanities in this city, the biggest is that line to the Shake Shack. Why on EARTH would you stand in line for that particular hamburger?"
truth is most normal people don't wait in line for an hour+ for a shack burger, they go off peak when it is half (or more) as long.
and there are lot's of people that don't mind standing in a nice park, catching up on reading or with a friend while they wait for a tasty, burger, dog or desert option.
so to answer your "why on earth" question: i can't speak for everyone, but there are a lot of people that wait on a much shorter then average line because they are patient enough to, and smart enough to plan ahead, and enjoy the food.
NEXT STOP: ROCKET SCIENCE!!!