Wednesday Food News: Early Edition

This week Bruni visits Keith McNally's Morandi, which has been getting creamed by critics of late. He awards the restaurant one star, says "the food has been getting a worse rap than it deserves," but also that it's erratic. He doesn't love the desserts, but doesn't hate them; same goes for the wine list. Overall, McNally has "miscalculated with this restaurant," says Bruni, "which doesn't have enough atmospheric magic to distract you from the insane decibel level, absence of elbow room and uncomfortable chairs."

The Times also presents short reviews of three spots (a new feature). Bruni stops by Gilt to see what chef Christopher Lee is doing, says "not all of Mr. Lee's efforts pay off, but they're less exhausting than Mr. Liebrant's [the former chef's] were." Pete Wells visits Natsumi, which offers--brace yourself--Japanese-Italian fushion. Says the dishes (like spicy sushi pizza) make more sense after a few drinks and that the place would work better as a bar. Peter Meehan stops by Barcade in Williamsburg, says it's aimed at beer geeks (25 American craft beers on tap) and video gamers.

Bloomberg News' Alan Richman goes to 15 East for sushi. Likes the sushi, the saki and the service. The sushi chef is Masato Shimizu, formerly of Jewel Bako, and most of the sushi Edo-style (warm rice, fish brushed with sauce). Other than the medium-rare chicken, Richman likes most of the offerings on the menu, and he particularly likes the desserts.

Paul Adams goes to Anthos for the New York Sun. Finds Michael Psilakis' new spot inventive (in a way similar to Psilakis' first Manhattan restaurant, Onera) but pricey. Says, "the luxury isn't consistent: the tables are too close-set, the waits for food prolonged, and little imperfections spot the experience."