Wednesday Food News: Early Edition
Bruni awards Sfoglia two stars. The Upper East Side Italian restaurant "hits a sweet spot between simplicity and sophistication, both in its look and its food," he says. He raves about most of the food, including the desserts and the bread, and recommends that you go for lunch as it takes about a month to get a dinner reservation (longer after his review, no doubt).
The boys at Eater (scroll down) are off this week, having put their money on one star for Sfoglia.
Also in the Times, Peter Meehan goes to Caffe Falai for $25 and Under. Iacopo Falai's casual spot gets Meehan's approval for its breakfast and lunch. "Dinner fare is where the strain of running a mini-empire shows," he says. He finds the meat and fish dishes weak, though the pastas are strong. The cafe takes its last dinner orders at 8pm.
Cuozzo's on a tear about incomprehensible wine lists and descriptions in the Post. "As fine-dining eateries grow ever more informal, many wine lists have grown inversely more ponderous, harder to navigate and ever more esoteric," he says.
Paul Adams visits Rosanjin for the NY Sun. The Japanese restaurant only serves kaiseki, a multicourse dinner that changes according to season and the mood of the chef. "Rosanjin's is the priciest kaiseki meal I've had in the city," says Adams, "and it's very fine, but it does not inspire awe commensurate with its price and focus on details."
