Wednesday Food News: Early Edition

Bruni goes to the Penthouse Strip Executive Club to try the steaks at its restaurant, Robert's Steakhouse. He receives offers from the staff to get naked for him, but--more to the point--also finds "some of the very best steaks in New York City," and gives the restaurant one star.

Eater is on the money again this week, having bet that Robert's would receive one star (and thereby cause Jeffrey Chodorow's head to explode).

Also in the Times, Peter Meehan goes to Kefi on the Upper West Side for $25 and Under. Chef Michael Psilakis (formerly of Onera and Dona) presents a classic Greek menu at the restaurant. Meehan calls the menu "immensely appealing;" it offers "low prices and enticing dishes."

In the Post, Cuozzo wonders why you haven't heard much about Gilt's new chef, Christopher Lee. Says Lee has been "weirdly snubbed by the New York media" and is doing very good things at Gilt, on a level comparable to Gabriel Kreuther at The Modern, Daniel Humm at 11 Madison Park and Wayne Nish at Nish.

Alan Richman goes to Boqueria for Bloomberg News, gives it a seven out of ten. He tried 10 tapas dishes, found seven of them "undeniably impeccable." In spite of those impeccable dishes, there are things he doesn't like: "It's tiny. It's in an inconvenient part of town. It accepts reservations only at lunch. It's noisy. It's jammed. The wall art is grocery-store merchandise." But service helps to save the day, he says.

Paul Adams visits Dennis Foy for the NY Sun. "Clean flavors prevail," he says, "artfully arranged with a Franco-American sensibility thats modern but never outlandish." Adams finds the seafood especially good; also likes the wine list and the desserts.