Beauty and the Brisket

David’s Brisket House is an unlikely relic on a stretch of Nostrand Avenue mostly populated by 99 cent stores and West Indian delis. The space is narrow and dated, outfitted with mirrored walls (the sort mostly reserved for adult film sets) and ceiling tiles brown with the remnants of some ancient leak. It doesn’t have the fame of Carnegie Deli or the sprawling space and hypnotic neon glow of Katz’s. The clueless tourists and first-timers, the ones who order their pastrami with mayo (tsk) and request half sour pickles (tsk tsk), don’t come here. David’s is a place for locals and sandwich hedonists—the type who don’t mind the occasional visit from a neighborhood crazy if it means dining with the kind of mindless abandon the place requires.

The pastrami at David’s is fantastic — as salty and tender as any of Manhattan’s long-standing aspirants — but that’s not why we came. The main event at this Chowhound favorite is the Brisket Sandwich served, as owner Rashad Almas would have it, on whole wheat bread with a hint of gravy.

Almas took his place behind the meat slicer in 1988, taking over for his father who, he says, purchased the deli from the Zoli family in 1972. He runs a tight ship, entrusting the meat’s preparation only to those who have spent a minimum of six months under his careful tutelage. “Hungry people are angry people,” he says. “My biggest challenge is keeping things consistent.”

The meat, which is roasted rather than steamed to achieve a slightly caramelized edge, is the stuff of dreams. Piled, as it so generously is, between two slices of bread, the Brisket Sandwich isn’t intended to be approached daintily. Clutch your napkin if you must, but the David’s experience is one of exuberant sloppiness, a kind of culinary debauchery that is far removed from the grace and ceremony that has become inextricably tethered to the modern dining experience.

David’s isn’t without its hiccups. The pickles are a trifle tame for Gothamist’s tastes (we like ours sour enough to induce tears), the Jesus Juice, a blend of honey, sea moss, peanuts, cashews and some “undisclosed ingredients,” might be a tad undeserving of its namesake and the place, we learned too late, shutters at 5:30 PM.

Still, the man does right by brisket—he’s a mensch in our book.

David’s Brisket House
533 Nostrand Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11216
(718) 783-6109

Contact the author of this article or email tips@gothamist.com with further questions, comments or tips.

By Jordana Rothman in Food on January 16, 2007 1:42 PM

Comments [rss]

Ernie III

First, this is the BEST Brisket I have ever had; on Rye Bread with Gravy the flavor combination explodes in your mouth. The Pastrami is also first rate. The pickles are perfectly fine . . . PLEASE, stop nit-picking!

Next: To get there: The exact location is Nostrand Ave, 1/2 block North of Atlantic Ave and 1-1/2 blocks South of Fulton St. The LIRR Flatbush Ave Line - Nostrand Ave stop is 1/2 block from David's. The "A" or "C" Bedford-Nostrand stop is 1-1/2 blocks away. The 44 and 25 buses pass directly in front of it. The 26, 43, 49, and 65 buses all pass within 2-3 blocks of it, and the Northern end of the Franklin Ave Shuttle is less than a five-minute walk. So . . . what are you waiting for?!?

david

what an obnoxiously written article. Besides the general insecure and faux elitist tone of the author, the writing is just plain cliche. "inextricably tethered"? Try again.

NewYorkDave

Brooklyn native/lifelong NY resident here... I've been enjoying half-sours my whole life. Thank God Gothamist is here to inform me that I am, in fact, a gauche tourist! Now excuse me while I go work on my "General American" accent ;)

Bob Marvin

By coincidence, I first noticed this place last Saturday, while driving home on Nostrand from a meeting at MTEC. I went there today with my wife.The pastrami may have been the best I've ever had--even better than the late lamented Pastrami King on Queens Blvd. in Kew Gardens. I thought the brisket was also quite good(we ordered one of each and split them).On the negative side, the place was FREEZING and,relating to the previous post, there was NO soap in the restroom. The place was kind of dreary looking, but reminded me of the '50s Jewish delis of my youth. Who'd have imagined there'd be such good pastramiin aplace that also served bacon cheeseburgersand offered their sandwiches on white bread with mayo?

yucky

Sounds great, until you check the Health department website and find that their inspections have been less then stellar!

Daniel

That is weird you both had that experience. The brisket was very moist and tender when I had it.... I'm going to be held to this come judgement day but it was better than the brisket that's served by my family members on the high holidays.

gamblegal

have to agree with oscar, it was neither salty nor tender and was in fact so dry i was thinking to myself that any self-respecting brisket-maker wouldn't have served it. But then he did say his biggest problem was consistency. Or maybe he was on vacation. But if the the sandwich sucks on you visit just get a bake or a double at the Trini takeout shop a block north on the same side of the street

beebo wallace

this is positively making my mouth water ...

Daniel

Full sours just have a bit more bite and character, like New Yorkers in general.

I've tried both the brisket and the pastrami there and was impressed to say the least. And the prices are quite reasonable for what you get. (PS that photo looks fine on my monitor edEx, you should get yours checked out).

Oscar Gamble

Went about to two weeks ago on the advice of a much-respected foodie, it was terrible. Dry as hell--even with a heaping dose of extra gravy. However, it is a cool-enough place that I would give it another try.

Take the C to Fulton and Nostrand, then walk south.

Izwiz

Hmmm... while it may not be the most aesthetically pleasing meal, or restaurant, it seems like a refreshing escape from the tourists and an authentic experience. The food-- right down to the Jesus juice and gravy induced brisket sandwich-- sound delicious! And as for the pickles... half sours are tame and sours are the ny way to go!

Chunk

Could someone please answer pastoralia's question -- what is the best way to get there? Mama needs some brisket. Now!

anonymass

This isn't the chick who tried to write about the BCS, is it?

gottalovethewannabes

gotta love the newcomers who want to make their bones re: how new york they are. hey babe, 1/2 sours are as new york as a mrs. stahl's knish (and there's no such thing as a brooklyn slice or whatever the held they call folding your pizza.)

bklynd

What's so gauche about half-sour pickles?

ed_Extinct

that image needs some serious retouching and color correcting. ewww!

Roger

Whoa whoa whoa, don't tell me I'm not a new yorker because I enjoy the crisp, light, refreshing taste of a half sour.

hs

Why the attitude towards sour pickle loving tourists? I think that any out-of-towner who knows of their existence is due for a little credit. Sheesh, at least they try.

JIM

Wait, what's wrong with half sours?

Kevin Walsh

>>>clueless tourists and first-timers, the ones who order their pastrami with mayo (tsk) and request half sour pickles (tsk tsk)

OK, I'm a lifelong NYer, fill me in. You're not supposed to have sour pickles with brisket? I love sour pickles...

www.forgotten-ny.com