Potato in the Pie

The sweet potato is one of those vegetables (you know, the kind with a little sugar in the tank). It goes both ways—sweet and savory—as versatile as the pumpkin or the carrot. Skeptical? Then sweet potato pie might win you over. When roasted, the tuber develops an alluring caramel nuttiness. Mashed with spices and the usual suspects (butter, sugar, eggs), it makes for a subtle custard filling. In fact in this pie form the vegetable shines better than in its syrupy cousin, that marshmallow-festooned casserole that also shows up this time of year. That gives you a good excuse for adding the pie to the Thanksgiving lineup next week. In the city, you can find a classic version of this dessert, which has its roots in the African-American cuisine of the South, at Make My Cake in Harlem ($11). Abu’s in Bed Stuy creates, in addition to regular size ($12), adorable individual pies ($2). For a more dressed-up confection, check out Two Little Red Hens, which adds pecans to the mix ($19 for 6”). Sugar Sweet Sunshine will also bake a sweet potato pie to order ($18). For all these shops, due to holiday demand, it’s best to call in advance.