Wednesday Food News: Early Edition

Bruni three-stars the recently renovated Picholine. Though he doesnt much like the physical changes-"still too quiet and sadistically bright"-the renovation "reinvigorated this restaurants soul," he says. In fact, he now likes it so much he celebrated his recent birthday there.

And the Eater oddsmakers nail it again. Theyre also all over the reopening of Waverly Inn (Graydon Carter edition).

Also in the Times, Peter Meehan visits Italian restaurant Lunetta on Smith Street in Brooklyn for $25 and Under. "There are plenty of Italian places that get the vibe right and the food wrong," he says. "Lunetta, especially on a good night, is not one of them: Mr. Shepard [chef and partner in the restaurant] can cook."

Cuozzo's got the news that Japanese Kobe beef is back. The trade embargo imposed in 2001 (brought on by fears of mad-cow disease) has been lifted recently. The beef has 50% fat (compared to 25% in U.S. kobe beef, and 12% in regular steak), and can be found on the menu at Geisha, BLT Steak, BLT Prime and BLT Burger.

Also in the Post, Andrea Strong recommends private rooms for eating out with a big group. On her list: the newly opened Room Service, The Glass Pavilion at 7 Square, Tatami Rooms at EN Japanese Brasserie, and The Monday Room at Public. We find the MUG guide to private room dining a bit more useful ourselves. Their original list is here; the update, here.

And in NY Mag, Adam Platt one-stars STK, where he finds the non-steak dishes tend to be better than the steak ones, and no-stars Lonesome Dove Western Bistro, where he couldnt tell you whether the meat inside [his rabbit empanada] was rabbit or chicken or some errant lizard flattened by a truck outside Waco. Ouch.