Wednesday Food News: Early Edition

Bruni one-stars Trestle on Tenth, says the Swiss restaurant is where "homey joins hearty." He loves the wine list but finds the cuisine uneven, says its heaviness "challenges vain, health-conscious New Yorkers to wade into the starchy and dive headlong into the flabby."

And Eater called it right this week, gave Trestle on Tenth even odds for one star. They predicted the special attention Bruni paid to the wine list, and point out that Adam Platt one-starred the restaurant this week as well.

Also in the Times, Mark Bittman visits El Bulli, says, "No meal is perfect, but this one was close." Finds the food overall more accessible than it once was and says Adria (pictured), while at the top of his game, is mellowing.

In the Post, Cynthia Kilian's got info on three openings: I-Chin (midtown east) serves Asian fusion, gastro-bistro Chat Noir (upper east) has Sebastien Baud (of La Goulue) cooking, and Picholine (upper west, Mediterranean) reopens today with a new look.