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In New York, “fresh peas” means the green kind—English, sugar snap, or snow—for which the prime season is spring. But down South, summer brings a whole other crop of legumes that are also called fresh peas (or shell peas). There are whippoorwills, zippers, and crowders; cream peas, butter peas, and lady peas (also known as purple-hull peas). Unlike other Southern specialties like grits and okra, these delicacies have yet to be discovered by chefs in this city. However, you can find purple-hull peas this time of year in certain small greengrocers that cater to Caribbean customers. In Harlem, Young Spring Farm carries them for $1.49 a pound (62 W. 125th Street between Lenox and Fifth). They pop up also in Flatbush at the shops along Church Avenue between Ocean Ave and E. 18th Street. On weekends in Bed-Stuy, you might spot them for sale from a vendor’s cardboard box on Fulton Street between Bedford and Franklin. Clearly, some people have quite a yen for these purple pods. Here they usually go under yet another name, “cow peas,” which points to their circuitous history.
Cow peas are native to west Africa, and they first came to the American South with the slave trade—via the West Indies. Initially, only slaves ate the peas, which served as a familiar nourishment. Others saw the peas as food suitable just for livestock (hence their name). Eventually though, everyone caught on to their virtues (especially during the Depression when peas provided a cheap source of protein).
You may wonder what’s the point of going to the trouble to shell these peas when black-eyed peas (their close cousin) are readily available canned and dried. Well, these shell peas taste a world apart, with a much more delicate flavor—less earthy, slightly nutty, and lightly sweet. Plus, they hold their texture better, which makes them perfect for salads, like the one below (adapted from Frank Stitt’s Southern Table). Seek out the humble shell pea, and you’ll be surprised at the rewards it affords.
Corn and Pea Salad
4 servings
1 cup shelled fresh cow peas (1/2 pound in the shell)
1 cup corn kernels (from 1 large cob)
1 small tomato, diced
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
½ red onion, chopped
½ tablespoon cider vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
1. Bring 3 cups of water to a boil, add the peas, and lower heat to maintain a simmer. Cook just until tender, about 15 minutes. Remove peas with a slotted spoon. Reserve pea broth for another use (such as to make rice).
2. Bring 3 cups of water to a boil, add the corn kernels, and boil just until tender, about 3 minutes. Drain, rinse in cool water, and drain again.
3. Toss together the peas, corn, and all remaining ingredients in a large bowl until well combined. Cover and store in the refrigerator for at least an hour to let the flavors develop. Serve at room temperature.
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Purple-hull peas are the best! I haven't had them since I was a kid in the South-East but I remember them fondly.
BTW, if you can't get fresh black-eyed peas, frozen is the next best option.
I quickly found reliable sources for decent-quality okra after moving here from North Carolina ten years ago, but was genuinely unaware that fresh crowder peas could be purchased in Manhattan.
This is the best thing I've ever read on Gothamist. Thank you.
PLEASE! Purple hull peas are NOT anything like lady peas. First of all, purple hulls are cheap. Lady peas now sell (when you can find them)at around $9.50/pound shelled. The true lady pea is a tiny slightly elongated yelowish pea. There are peas sold as "lady peas" that are much larger, and although good, they are nothing like the true lady pea. Generally, they are not found in supermarkets. We can usually buy them at the farmers' markets in MS but only in mid to late July. Didn't get any this year as the season was too dry and those that had a few kept them for friends and family. They were, however, trying to pass off the larger kind at regular lady pea prices!!!!
Field peas, puruple-hull peas,creme peas, crowder peas and black-eyed peas are all VERY different from lady peas, especially in price.
Help! I am trying to find the name of a certain pea that my grandfather used to grow. They are a small light green pea, solid in color. We called them white peas, but what others call white peas isn't the same. All my grandmother could remember was that she thought their name was a number. They are a bright, light green color. They do have an "eye" but it's the same color as the pea. Any help would be very appreciated!