Wednesday Food News: Early Edition

Bruni two-stars Little Owl, says “It has an irresistible earnestness and exuberance that explain its instant, well-deserved popularity.” Also, he really likes the pork chop. Chef Joey Campanero, formerly executive chef at The Harrison and Pace, gets kudos for “disciplined cooking,” as does manager and co-owner Gabriel Stulman, for “real hospitality.”

Gothamist visited Little Owl for brunch and on opening night and was favorably impressed both times.

Eater double-dared Frank to two-star Little Owl a week after two-starring Le Cirque, and he did it. That means Eater is off, though, having put the odds on one-star.

In the Post, Steve Cuozzo says the opening of Nolita’s In Tent is worth the hype for three reasons: it has no permanent roof (due to zoning complications, the owners were forced to come up with an all-weather tent), doesn’t serve hard liquor, and doesn’t serve chicken, and it’s still good. He calls the menu “vividly seasoned and embracing a controlled exoticism.” One of the owners is pastry god Francois Payard, which is enough to get us interested.

Also in the Post; Chris Erikson covers Union Square Wines new automated wine tasting machines. You get credits by signing up and by buying wine; the amount deducted for a taste is determined by the quality of the wine.

Peter Meehan likes Chicory Brooklyn in Cobble Hill, especially the fish tacos, freshly fried potato chips, and grilled sandwiches. Calls it “a valuable addition to Cobble Hill’s dining scene.”