June 23, 2006
Camera in the Kitchen: Pies n' Thighs
Some use the phrase "hole in the wall" proverbially, but tucked under the Brooklyn side of the Williamsburg bridge and most easily accessible by bike, the month-old Pies n' Thighs takes it quite literally. During a recent visit, three, including co-owners Steve Tanner and Sarah Buck, stood in the sweltering hot closet-sized kitchen manning the fryer, taking orders, slicing homemade bread, doling out pulled pork, and making fresh lemonade ($2)--somehow all at once. The line, only 4 bodies deep, was already snaking out the door, our necks straining to see the high-hung menu featuring delightfully greasy southern cooking.
Open from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. every day but Monday, we quickly learned the hard lesson of first come, first serve. Pies n' Thighs serves 'til it's gone; by 8 p.m. on a Tuesday, they were out of their soon-becoming-famous fried chicken, cornbread, collard greens, and all pies but the key lime. Instead, we shared the fried catfish box ($8)-- two hearty fillets coated in a glistening, buttery cornmeal crust which lays atop a slice of pickle, mound of tangy coleslaw, homemade biscuit, healthy serving of tartar sauce (creamy but with kick!), and also comes with a side order. We opted for the baked beans, spicy pinto beans kicked up with hot sauce and topped with a dollop of Carolina-style pulled pork (doused in vinegar and hot sauce). The catfish was moist and the crust divine, though when we hit the middle of the fillet, found it slightly undercooked. Mac n' cheese, also spicy, was permeated by the distinct taste of Frank's Hot Sauce--definitely not a bad thing, but next time we'll come early enough for the collard greens.
All desserts are prepared in-house by Buck, the baker of the duo. Rhubarb, key lime, and peanut butter pies are three of a number that rotate in offering, all which come with a dollop of fresh whipped cream ($3.50 - $4). Cookies, rice crispy treats, and a rhubarb crumble were also available the night we went and at brunch you will find buckwheat pancakes and fresh donuts to get your sweet and greasy fill.
For a city always in search of good Southern cookin', when Pies n' Thighs says "tea" they mean sweet tea and there's no such thing as a vegetarian option. Portions are huge, and though the kitchen stops frying at 9 p.m., with Southern hospitality they let us relax at the outdoor tables until 10:30 p.m. on a recent night, enjoying the evening breeze and the view of the Williamsburg bridge, bikes propped up nearby.
Pies n' Thighs is located at 351 Kent Ave. (at S. 5th St.), Williamsburg. 347-282-6005. Open Tues - Sun, 10 a.m. - 9 p.m., closed on Mondays.
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Not sure what's funnier: Putting a photo of a heavyset lady under the title "Pies n' Thighs," or that Gothamist is recommending this place.
There's a word that can be used to describe this joint. It has the word "hole" in it, but it isn't followed by "in the wall."
This place, just from the pictures alone, looks absolutely disgusting. Only a month old? The top picture makes the floor and counters look covered with garbage, dirt and filth; how couldit be that dirty in a month?
I hope Gothamist got paid in advance for its review.
I live right down the street from Pies and Thighs. This place rules! I am glad you think it is gross because I think you are an idiot and I wouldn't want you crowding the place with your holier than thou attitude.
You are right the place looks gross, you should just stay in Murray Hill and eat at Banc. Loser.
Btw, the biscuit egg and cheese is fucking outstanding so go in the morning for breakfast. MMMMM!
Youngna you rule.
Whiel I have never been to this joint, I can't figure out what in the world Duderinoo is talking about. The place looks a bit cramped for space and so they have various things on the counter top. BVut I don't see anything resembling dirt or filth. Get your eyes checked, dude.
And I'll take that plate of catfish and mashed potatoes to go, please. It looks damn good!
I can spell but I can't type.
That's while rather than whiel and but rather than bvut!
I cringed as soon as I saw this... No! Do not give them any press... it's hard enough to get there before they run out of food.
From the responses, I guess I stand corrected. The pictures may be gross, but you guys make the food sound good. Of course, maybe you all work for Gothamist or Pies and Diarrhea.
I'm planning on going there with 50 of my closest friends now, so we can crowd out all of the "locals" (aka billyburg trustfund dipsters like "I rule...").
nice shovel.
the food is good (but avoid the cheeseburger - it is delicious BUT incredibly messy), i can't wait to go back. this place definitely has issues w/ keeping up with the crowds, esp. after that NYT spot. i don't care for the mac 'n' cheese as spicy as it is, but wow the cole slaw is a welcome vinegar bomb. on the whole this place is less than ideal (spatially, running out of menu items, etc.) but i highly recommend it. and, oh yes, curse the publicity.
I live by this place and have gone a few times, this place is way overrated and is alway out of the chicken or catfish. overpriced for what it is too.....
like mamma's for the wb. remember sweet mamma's (on lormier)? check out enid's if you want some good home cookin' and a nice big bar near a nice park.
i don't care for the mac & cheese, (does it contain salsa?), but everything else i've had has been pretty good, and the prices are reasonable, and portions generous.
i do, however, wish they'd get cups for the tartar sauce. it was put next to the coleslaw and the two just ran together. sad.
are you kidding me enids!! 9 bucks for biscuits and gravy and you get 2 bits of sausage. mammas? Are you insane that place sucked glad its gone they couldnt even make a decent chicken fried steak.
I had lunch there last weekend, the space is insanely small; buckets of pork and salad were stacked on the stools, cabbage was being chopped on a picnic table in the outdoor seating area. later I saw the chef chatting outside with a head of lettuce tucked under one arm (appetizing!) overall I'd say I witnessed a couple dozen or so health code violations during my visit. Not filthy, more kind of hipster-urban-hippie grungy.
The pulled pork was basically vinegar, there might have been some pork flavor in there too, but I can't be sure. Baked beans: good, but overly-spicy for my taste. Mac n' cheese: tasty, but not unlike that which is available from Kraft. Biscuit: excellent, would have appreciated some butter and honey. Apple pie: also not bad. Waitron: cute and nice, a little forgetful.
Rating out of 10: 5.5
Score on the Shake Shack Scale of Overhyped Food:34.5 (Shake Shack is a 50)
borscht -
I like your honest review, but I have a questino about the Shake Shack scale. I'm assuming a 50 means "most overhyped", but I also need your general Shake Shack rating to understand where Pies fits.
"...but tucked under the Brooklyn side of the Williamsburg bridge..."
What? As opposed to the Staten Island side?
um... manhattan?
The food may be great but when a fat, sweaty woman in a sleeveless tank top and uncovered long hair is doing the cooking - I'll pass! I'm sure that makes all the fans of this place happy. More of that food for you.
Hey Duderinoo,
I make more money than you and I live in Williamsburg and you might even want to call me a hipster and you are an idiot and this place rules.
this place is amazing one of the best memories of my last trip to ny. the place is warm and soo cool the food is delicious and the people who works there are nice and funny.one of the hideen trasure of brooklyn.but if u prefer fancy end pretencious places with bad expensive food u better not go..
Pies n thighs is my life. I wish they had gravy on the weekdays. I wish Sarah wasnt a cunty bitch. But hey, Rockstar bar is hipster chic. (sike)
I live in Raleigh, NC and im moving up to NYC soon so I was checking out random food in the area and came across this. It looks promising but alitte pricey but its nyc so it makes sense. Also with the grossness, this is how most bbq places look in NC. They have it spot on all the way down to the shitty faux white lettered menu they have pictured on their website. I will without a doubt stop by once I move.