Tidbits

- New York magazine's Adam Platt pans Craftsteak, says it's essentially a one-star steakhouse, but that the quality of the Craft franchise knocks it up to two. Faint praise. Calls the desserts "reruns" of pastry chef Karen DeMascos' creations at Craft.

- Also in NY Mag, did Cipriani pull out of the $300 million project slated for Pier 57--in which the city was to be a partner--because of questions about past business practices? Specifically, an alleged payment to the Gambino family? A spokesman for the deal denies, cites "all the bureaucracy" as the problem.

- The UK Observer reports on star chefs and the global dining phenomenon. Gordon Ramsay "shitting himself" about the upcoming launch of his new restaurant in the Righa Royal hotel on West 54th.

- Frank Bruni blogs about burgers: Visits Zip Burger (300 East 52nd Street at Second Ave.) and Burgers & Cupcakes (458 Ninth Avenue at 36th Street). Verdict: He likes both; raves about neither.

- And and interview with Anthony Bourdain, whose latest book The Nasty Bits: Collected Varietal Cuts, Usable Trim, Scraps, and Bones is recently out, is at Bookslut via Saute Wednesday - he discusses "liquid doobage" and the foie-gras ban amongst other things.