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June 11, 2006

A Drinker's Playground

Your GreeterJust about every animal has been used to market wine these days. Kangaroos, frogs, and goats appear on labels everywhere. But how about a real live dog selling the wine? That’s what you’ll find at Bottlerocket, the new store that opened last month in the Flatiron district. Bottlerocket does everything in its power to deflate the pretentiousness of the wine world. You can’t help but feel comfortable here — even if wine to you means Thunderbird, which they stock right behind the register (as a half-joke). The smart store design is even more user-friendly than Best Cellars but maintains a serious edge too, with extensive “resumes” posted under each bottle. Wines are arranged in cubes according to theme. There are bottles paired with the archetypes of takeout food like Chinese, Thai, and BBQ. At the seasonal section, wines are suggested to pair with current greenmarket items (like asparagus and peas) in a nod to nearby Union Square.

And for all those gift-givers of sucky wine: here’s the place you need to get schooled. The store makes it super-easy with recommendations for “the boss,” “an old friend,” and “someone you barely know.” The cutesiness may be a bit much for sommelier types, but wait till you get to the back. There, tables and shelves are filled with wine books and magazines, sort of like the study area you find at museum exhibitions. There’s also a play area for kids — appropriate since the store is really a big playground for adults. However, the old snobbery still has its grip; as much as you itch to try the Thunderbird, you just can’t bring yourself to ask for it.

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