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April 27, 2006

The First Course: Savoy

Nestled on the corner of Prince and Crosby Streets in SoHo, Peter Hoffman's Savoy has been wowing its guests for years now with an ever-changing menu. Hoffman consistently serves food purchased from local greenmarkets, keeping his focus on what's in season. The menu also reflects his obsession--shared by many chefs, such as Mario Batali and Thomas Keller--with charcuterie. Gothamist got a chance to sample some of the house-cured meat in a recent special appetizer featuring guanciale aside cubes of roasted winter squash, frisee, and hazelnuts. Guanciale is a fatty cut of pork traditionally prepared in Italy. The meat is cut from the hog's jowls and dried for three weeks. Eww, you say? Taste first, then judge: it was fantastic. Is it worth all the chef's work? Well, to be honest, it tastes like bacon, but very good bacon.

2006_4_GothamSavoySpreads.jpgAnother highlight from the menu is the trio of Mediterranean dips: garlicky Greek potato, which may keep you from kissing your date at evening's end; fiery roasted red pepper and walnut, which blends hot and sweet perfectly; and black olive and lentil, which tasted like a tapenade substantial enough to eat on its own. They were all simple but delicious, served with warm grilled bread. These are dips we definitely want to try to replicate at home. Also good are the roasted brussels sprouts with grilled apples, chevre, and caramelized walnuts. Savoy remains a restaurant of extraordinary comforts: local food, a fireplace, and service that is both accommodating and efficient. Whether you come for a nibble at the horseshoe-shaped bar or for one of the seasonal tasting menus, you will be enveloped by its charms.

Savoy
70 Prince Street (at Crosby Street)
New York, NY 10012
Tel: 212-219-8570

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