Camera in the Kitchen: Yuva

New Indian fare has been spicing up E. 58th Street, calling itself the new "curry lane." Yuva, meaning "youth," celebrated their inaugural month yesterday, the fire from the grill of master chef Dhandu Ram lighting up the dining room. A combination of modern and traditional cuisines, the menu focuses on two sections: roasted and slow-cooked. An extensive menu, almost overwhelming, presents a wealth of Tandoori specials, and vegetarian, rice, seafood, meat, and bread options to serve all of a large parties' cravings. Gothamist visited for a press preview dinner and started with a glass of Chilean Merlot while our dining companion started with a bottle of Taj Mahal beer. Waiters brought lightly fried & battered okra to the table with a selection of three sauces followed by a first course of Adrak ke Panje, a rack of lamb in a marinade of yogurt, ginger, and a variety of spices and then broiled in the tandoor. Extraordinarily moist and falling off the bone, accompanied by basmati rice and freshly buttered naan, Gothamist was licking the bone as the next plate was set down. Yuva's Malai Kofta, homemade cheese and vegetable croquettes simmered in a cream sauce, arrived piping hot, rich with spices and a sauce perfect for ladling onto the rice or naan. At this point, stomachs already bursting, a filet of medium-rare tuna, simmered in spices and coconut milk arrived at the tabletop, fresh, though not particularly distinguished. For dessert, we selected the traditional rosamalai with jasmine parfait, soft patties of homemade cheese poached in condensed milk sauce with a mound of parfait and a sprinkling of crushed pistachios. Dessert proved to be the highlight of the meal, faintly sweet and off-setting the meal's rich flavors. Yuva's myriad options, from cocktails and appetizers to entrees are both their strength and their downfall -- it's great to have choices, but hard to know what the specialties are. Gothamist recommends going with waiters' recommendations; they know the menu and can point you in the right direction.

Yuva is located at 230 E. 58th Street and open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner with brunch on the weekends. 212-339-0090.