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Any meal paired with sake is pretty much going to make Gothamist happy. Aside from the fact that we love this Japanese brew, after a few of those cute little sake pitchers – everything just tastes better (Life lesson: don’t let their unassuming size fool you). So when we made our reservation for the 8 course sake pairing dinner at Megu, we slapped on our drinking sandals and prepared ourselves for some amazing Japanese cuisine.
Now, we weren’t going into this cold. We had read about the “Megu Dinning Experience” and were prepared for the awe-inspiring dining room, the intimidating menu and the ice sculpture. In our mind we imagined it as an “Epcot’s Land of Imagination meets M.o.M.A” kind of feel (and we were surprisingly close.)
As we descended down the staircase into the main dinning room we stopped and noticed a beautiful arrangement of old sake bottles behind an imposing piece of glass. The sakes were perfectly arranged and lit like a piece of art. Our attention was quickly distracted by the excitement going on below. There was a fountain with fire and ice, walls of clay, glass and wood, waiters screaming "Irashaimase!'' (the Japanese greeting of welcome) and…wait a second, is that Jazz music? Yep, we couldn’t figure that one out either.
Our senses were fully engaged, there was so much to take in and we hadn’t even begun our meal yet. It seemed that everything in Megu was carefully thought out balanced with a contrasting element – there was paradox everywhere, all creating an overall feeling of balance and harmony. It is this philosophy of balance, the Yin and Yang, that prepares you to fully take in the sake experience. Sake, like wine, appeals to all senses. The delicate aromas lure you in, but it is the complex and balanced notes, which slowly reveal themselves, that keep you coming back for more.
The meal began with a greeting, a bow from the Sake Master and a quick overview of what we were about to experience. He went quickly, throwing out words like “Daiginjo” and “Fukkoshu”. We had no idea what he was talking about (we smiled and nodded), but as the courses began everything became clear.
The secret to a fabulous sake-food pairing was revealed to us the moment we walked through the door. The best combinations were contrasts: pairing bold complex sakes with simple, uncomplicated dishes or pairing rich, powerful foods with delicate, subtle sakes.
There were two pairings that best exemplified this. Course two was the Aquatic Trio, which was sayori, ainame and salmon sashimi, paired with a Junmai Daiginjo. The complex and fragrant sake complemented the simple yet flavorful fish. The sashimi was perhaps the best we have had, and the sake added interest and balance to course. Course four was called “Megumi” – Nature’s Blessing. This was a perfect expression of pairing more neutral sake with complex flavors. The dish consisted of five bites: sushi, tomato, shrimp, mushroom and eel all prepared in a unique beautiful fashion. The bold and exotic flavors shined against the more neutral backdrop of a special Junmai sake, which was light, smooth and crisp.
The food we tried that evening was unique and innovative – some things we loved (we are drooling just thinking of the sashimi and Kobe Beef Chateaubriand) and others we quickly washed down with Sake (Japanese Summer River Fish didn’t float our boat) but what truly made our dinning experience one we will always remember was the relationship we formed with Sake. Megu has elevated our expectations, knowledge and love of sake. Megu delivered a unique, complex and beautifully balanced dinning experience. It was the perfect expression of what sake can and should be.
Sake 101:
There are 4 basic types of sake, and each requires a different brewing method:
Junmai-shu (rice only, no adding of distilled alcohol), usually a bit heavier and fuller than the other types with a touch more acidity. Great with rich fish.
Ginjo-shu (highly milled rice, with or without alcohol added), the flavors are complex and fragrant and are often fruity and flowery. Best served with a simple dish as not to compete with the food.
Daiginjo-shu (even more highly milled rice, with or without alcohol added), extremely labor intensive process results in a very fragrant and complex sake. This is also best served with a simple dish to let the sake shine.
Namazake (sake that is not pasteurized), fresh and lively touch to the sake. All types of sake can be made namazake.
Megu, 62 Thomas Street between West Broadway & Church, (212) 964-7777
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How can I be part of Gothamist's food/drinks team? it sounds oh so scrumptious.
Better than Decibel?
Not in the same price class as decibel for sure. For my money, I'll definitely definitely take decibel over this place.
I'm pleased to hear that you enjoyed that particular sake event since it will most likely be the last of its kind and quality. Well, actually the second to last. The reason this is the case is simply due to new management. Instead of keeping an authentic staff who live and breathe the cuisine that is offered at Megu the president has chosen to bring in someone from Cipriani to instill a new force of will and direction. This has resulted in what one would normally imagine... lots of lay offs and lots of changes to send a clear message that it is no longer the restaurant that it started out ot be. As an insider I am sad to relay that even my own position here is hanging on a string... which is neither here nor there. Although it still hurts since those of whom have truly made Megu what it is are no longer valued as integral parts to the whole. Specifically, these were the Japanese employees who opened the restaurant and brought authenticity and passion. Far more so than even our local NY staff. That is not to say that Westerners are incapable of bringing such traits to the table but rather it is a different sort of passion. When someone is primarily focused on learning a foreign cuisine it is special but it there is deeper sense of pride when you are teaching others about a cuisine that you grew up with and participated in, whether it be as sons and daughters of previous generations growing and nuturing these ingredients or simply because you're proud to share the tastes of your homeland with many of us who've grown to love and appreciate them. All in all this place will still attract the masses but the true epicureans will find themselves sadly and more gradually disappointed when they bring fresh diners to test the fare since there will no longer be those well spoken, passionate individuals enthusiastically sharing the details of what the food is all about and where it comes from and why it's so damn special. What you'll end up getting is some typical guy with a thin moustache who really doesn't truly care about the food... only his paycheck and tip. I know all about this... I was a waiter for over decade and the only thing that helped set me apart was the fact that i knew i wanted to do more than just that. so i often went beyond the call of duty. Nowadays these kids just do the bare minimum the get by and "earn" their 15 %or 18% tip. what's more is the fact that the original imported chefs in the kitchen have practically all left since they've experienced thier fair share of mistreatment from the guy who wears red rimmed glasses...i.e. the president. I really hate to say this... actually, I'm really sorry since what your readers will eventually find is a great deal of misleading information and dated material now that these changes have occured. it's not the writer's fault either. as a matter of fact she wrote a really impressive review. But since then so much has changed its almost absurd. If you don't believe me you should stealthly research the information i've provided on your own. As a matter of fact I'm thinking about resigning very soon since I feel this place is like a burning ship and now's the time to jump before it's too late. which is really very sad since it had so much potential to be one of the best. if they learn and improve their philosphy of how they treat their staff or what we in the industry simply call our "family" then perhaps they'll float... otherwise my guess is that it'll be very soon when they find themselves functioning like every other corporate restaurant. But thanks again for the awesome comments from the Sake event since I was able to contribute to it. Sadly, the guy who really made that event happen is holding his last event this Tuesday, the 20th of Sept. I suggest you reach him then since it'll be his last night here. He's going out with a bang, as he should, and I know he's still going to continue to provide these types of events but at different more intimate location for the "real" people. Anyways, good luck.