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First we heard rumblings on eGullet. Then we got the first review from our favorite pizza blog, Slice NY. Next things got official when The New York Times, New York magazine, and the Village Voice weighed in, too.
They were all speaking of the East Village's newest pizzeria, Una Pizza Napoletana, a place whose owner, Anthony Mangieri, claimed, "[i]n my opinion, there's no good pizza" in New York. Given the hallowed history of New York pizza -- which includes Coney IslandMidwood's DiFara's, DUMBO's Grimaldi's, and East Harlem's Patsy's--them's fightin' words, for sure.
Gothamist loves a good food fight, so we couldn't wait to see if the pizza measured up to the claims its owner was making. Whereas Slice NY called the pizza "stupendous," the Village Voice had been more circumspect in its praise, claiming that while Una Pizza Napoletana had perfect ingredients and intentions, it lacked flawless execution.
To help with comparisons (or maybe because we're just pizza gluttons), Gothamist and friends went to Grimaldi's the day before we went to Una Pizza Napoletana. We wanted the Grimaldi's pie fresh in our memory before tasting the competition.
As usual, Grimaldi's had the perfect combination of charred bits of crust, top-notch mozzarella in just the right proportions, and that basil-infused tomato sauce that tastes like stepping back in time to the heyday of New York-style pizza. At Grimaldi's, they use a coal-fired brick oven, which has always been the authentic New York pizza oven of choice.
When Italian immigrants brought pizza to NYC, they found that coal-fired brick ovens were cheaper and more readily available than the wood-fired brick ovens that are de rigeur in Naples, the birthplace of pizza. Those first immigrant pizza makers found a way to negotiate the high-heat ovens that had the coal in a separate compartment (unlike the wood-fired ovens that place the pizza just inches away from the licking flames) and New York-style pizza was born.
At Una Pizza Napoletana, the owner insisted on a custom-built wood-fired brick oven because he wanted to make pizza the original Neapolitan way, not the modified New York way. We wondered, however, if this difference of wood-fired vs. coal-fired oven would really make a difference in the flavor and texture of the pizza. The answer is both yes and no.
While there is a subtle distinction, the difference of coal vs. wood is much smaller than either coal-fired vs. gas oven or wood-fired vs. gas oven. Most run-of-the-mill pizzerias use gas-fired ovens that are simpler (and cheaper) to deal with; unfortunately, gas heat cannot create the extremely high heat necessary to produce old-school New York pizza or Neapolitan-style pizza.
So when we settled down at Una Pizza to taste both the margherita (standard tomato sauce and mozzarella style pizza) and the bianca (white pizza, made of cheese and no tomatoes) we found them to be extremely delicious and satisfying. From the quality of the buffalo mozzarella (shipped in from Italy) to the hand-made crust (always fresh, never frozen) to the prized San Marzano tomatoes used to make the sauce, we were impressed. We even noticed the added flavors of the sea salt and extra virgin olive oil that Mangieri fleetingly sprinkles over the prepped pie right before cooking it.
If forced to choose a winner, Gothamist would go with Una Pizza Napoletana. Those added touches of flavor were subtle but distinct in such a way that made the pizza transcend greatness and achieve some sort of Platonic Ideal. Now, whether the pizza always lives up to that, we cannot say--to find out, we'll just have to keep going back and eating more pizzas.
But we still love Grimaldi's and won't ever stop going there, either. Where else can you eat a pizza that Frank Sinatra would have loved, while staring at the many photos of him on the wall? Every day it seems there are fewer remainders from Old New York, and Grimaldi's is one of them that we're happy is still around.
Grimaldi's (Brooklyn Bridge location)
19 Old Fulton St. under the Brooklyn Bridge, (718) 858-4300
Hours: Sun.-Fri.: 11:30am to 10:45pm, Saturday: noon to 11:45pm
Una Pizza Napoletana
349 East 12th Street (between 1st & 2nd Ave.), (212) 477-9950
Hours: 5 p.m. until "out of fresh dough" Thursday through Saturday; Noon until "out of fresh dough" Sunday. Closed Monday through Wednesday.
Photo of Anthony Mangieri courtesy of Asbury Park Press.
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Ugh. I was really disappointed by both the price and taste when I went to Una Pizza Napoletana. I need more explanation than you provide to understand why this place is so good.
What!?! DiFara’s is in Midwood, which is nowhere near Coney Island, in fact it is over four miles away!. That's a geographical distance equivalent to the distance from the Upper West Side to Tribeca. C'mon, that's just insulting. Brooklyn isn't just some little appendage to Manhattan, even if foodies can't bring themselves to explore every little corner of the borough.
I personally prefer Grimaldi’s. (which, for what it's worth, is technically not in DUMBO, but rather Fulton Ferry Landing)
I was thinking of Coney Island's well-regarded pizzeria Totonno's when I wrote DiFara's instead. Thanks for the correction.
My apologies for assuming that you didn't know Brooklyn well enough.
yikes.
I wouldn't bother comparing the two, personally. Wood vs. Coal? reasonably priced vs borderline overpriced?
Loved Napo, thought it was very tasty... but not sure I could justify the cost (i know, quality of ingredients). Grimaldi's is $$$ almost every time, completely satisfying.
I don't think napo is worth putting up against any of the NYC style staples, it's a totally different thing.
Now I'm hungry and I'm gonna have to check out Napos but I wouldn't be surpirsed if it's just another hype job. Sort of like DiFara's, which is nowhere good enough to deal with interminable wait and certainly doesn't live up to the hype. It'smerely "great" (if too oily) but not the best in NYC, that's for sure.
I agree that NYC-style pizza by the slice should not be compared to Italian style pizza. I've never been to Naples, but the pizza I had elsewhere in Italy is eaten with a knife and fork--much thinner, softer crust and foundation than NYC pizza. The kind where you need an individual, "personal" size pie for yourself...one or two slices are not nearly enough. Not the same food group as a NYC slice.
Two New Yorkers will agree on the topic of pizza right around the time that Satan begins shopping for ice skates.
hey, i'm thinking of checking out this place tonight, but if it's really$$$$$$ i'm not really interested. for anyone who's been, how much is a pizza on ave.?
danke.
Perplexa, Una Pizza Napoletana IS somewhat pricey. They charge $16.95 for a 12-inch pizza, while Grimaldi's charges $14 for an 18-inch pizza (not including extra toppings).
in my office, this dude had already earned a nickname: the pizza nazi. at those prices, he should be a whole lot nicer to his customers.
I went here and now feel suckered by the hype... Before the owner starts taking shots at new york's finest pizza he should learn how to make a better pie.. $16.95 for a wood oven burnt margarita pie that is really for one is insane. There is really no comparison here. I did, however, like the sea salt touch, but if you can get that on your potato chip, it's not going to differentiate your pizza in nyc.
Hey wait a minute. All of you are talking about these pizzeria's in the city, yet no one mentions the pizza in Staten Island?
I'm sort of shocked!
I personally think the Italian food in general is the best in Staten Island. I haven't found anything that tops it around the city.
Try "Joe&Pat's" for good thin crust pizza, or "Jimmy Max's" special, or even the brick-oven "Goodfellas".
Staten Island is actually a borough you know...
I have frequented Una Pizza Napoletana since it opened. I am not rich, nor do I accept unreasonable attitude from any one...Perhaps that's why almost all the above comments make me cry for humanity's existence. The bombastic lines of criticism pasted onto this site are sad. There is no evident appreciation of quality (many seem to enjoy bleached and bromated dough), which will always be more expensive, especially with food. Not only are people spouting without any frame of reference or apparent knowledge that goes beyond eating a lot of pizza - Without any tone of challenge - How many of you have eaten at Da Michels's pizzeria in Naples, where "burnt" is consumed with admiration? - but they seem to have no regard for the fact that the pizza being served is a man's - perhaps a family's - life. If it's not to your liking, not within your budget, or not your idea of friendly service, just don't go. What satisfaction does it give you to be insult people?
By the way, the only people I've ever seen the owner treat unkindly (he threw them out) were two separate groups of men who didn't like the wait and treated a waiter like a slave.
Best to you all.
I was in New York for the Pizza Show in November. I have eaten at all famous pizzeria in NYC and also at Una Pizza Napoletana. I have to say that is far the best effort made so far in NYC. It is no comparison with Da Michele's pizza (sorry Claire), as for example the charring spots (like small birthmarks on the skin of a beautyful woman)are nowhere near the half burnt pizza I was served. On the other hand, after speaking with the owner, and having check the oven myself, I have to say that is not the best to cook that type of pizza, and I believe tha Mr Mangieri is making every effort to master it. The quality of the topping is first class, and flying buffalo mozzarella in from naples itself justify the pricy pizza.
I forgot to say that I was born and grow up in Naples, live in London since 6 years and I am writing a book on traditional neapolitan pizza as it was made in 1730s
I would like to say to all of the commenters(except Claire)that your palate deserves the pizza hut or dominos pizza it craves!! I have been and stayed in Naples numerous times and have travelled thru the US.In the US-Una Pizza I can say is the ONLY true napoletana pizza I have ever come across in my journeys.As for Naples there are even some of the "best known" places for pizza that Una blows out of the water. These name dropping places you have listed you should stay at-with their crappy tasting,cheap ingredient garbage they sell. None of you would know true value or passion if it bit you on your butts. As far as the polite service- I guess you only get it if you treat people the same way. Probably why on all the occasions I have gone to Una Pizza I have never had rude service. As for all the complaints of price,do any of you even know what goes into his process? Read the brochure before you complain-among the finest ingredients that I am sure are not to cheap to his pocket-he also makes everthing by hand himself(no nonspeaking alien is doing the work)the guy is doing it himself. Do all of us who have palates that crave the BEST and have admiration-dont go to Una Pizza-it will survive without you!
Sher
Hoping that you did not include me between the commenters that deserves those mentioned american pies, I would like just to ask you a question.
Which are those pizzeria in Naples that Una Pizza
"blows out of the water"?
I do agree that in Naples some pizzeria do not deserve the fame they got, but your comment seams a bit to powerful...
I'd like to remind you that I was born, grow up and trained as pizzaiolo in Naples, thus I know what I am talking about.
Take care
I live two blocks from Una Pizza Napoletana and try to eat there once a week . ON THURSDAY night, when it is not totally packed . Despite what anyone has said, this is uniquely delicious pizza and I have never seen anyone there dissatisfied . The East Village is now a crucible of one of a kind , specialty food places that take one ethnic food ( dumplings, udon, arepas,hummous,french fries) and attempt to elevate and restore it to authentic quality levels. This is a noble enterprise based on hard work . It is very much in the tradition of the Polish butchers and Jewish bakers and deli that still thrive here.
I'm surprised that your not aware of the new Grimaldi's in Garden City Long Island. It is truly awesome. In addition to the great pizza they have added a full large bar, great happy hour. You should check it out!!
please, dont mention jimmy max in same breath as joe and pats, deninos, lees, brothers or 20 other s.i. pizzas
No matter how good this guys pies are the fact remains he is a complete and total rude **hole.
Anyone who patronizes his place is supporting the livelihood of someone who has absolutely no concern
for his customers.
Business like Anthonys should not be allowe to thrive.