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Ever since the Summer Olympics in Athens, Gothamist has been obsessing over Greek food and wine options in the city. And while we've spent the past couple of months indulging the obsession through a quick gyro here or a lingering bougatza and frappe there, the time had come for Gothamist to pull out the big guns. It was time to go to Molyvos.
We'd heard over the years from various press sources that the theater-district-based Molyvos offered inspired interpretations of classic Greek cuisine, along with contemporary surprises, in a rustic setting. Now, finally, was our chance. We brought along a few friends so that we could sample plenty of items from the menu. There's just something about the Greek propensity towards lots of small dishes--the meze--that makes Gothamist want to order ten items when five would suffice.
Choosing amongst the classic Greek spreads of tzatziki, melintzanosalata, and taramosalata is always impossible, so we ordered a menu item that brought us a sampling of all three. Good thing we did, because Gothamist could not pick a favorite--all three were top notch. The eggplant base of the melintzanosalata was light and not in the least bit bitter, the garlicky edge of the tzatziki did not overwhelm the tanginess of the yogurt, and the taramosalata avoided any too-fishy or too-salty overtones. The accompanying pita and olive bread was warm and fresh, and way too addictive, considering that we needed to save room for all that was still to come.
And here is what was still to come: chicken magiritsa soup, briam (vegetable stew), lamb chops, grilled baby octopus, rabbit stifado (stew), moussaka, clay-pot-cooked lamb shanks, and spinach with orzo. Did we go a little crazy with the ordering? Yes. Was it worth it? Definitely yes. Our group tried a bit of everything, and the flavors melded wondrously. Whether it was the velvety texture of the soup, the charred meatiness of the baby octopus, the olive-oil infused vegetables of the briam, or the sweet lamb and mild rabbit that were both falling-off-the-bone tender, Gothamist was in Hellenic heaven.
We've rarely so enjoyed such a span of Greek foods in one meal, so until we can afford that airplane ticket to Athens, Molyvos will certainly suffice.
Molyvos, 871 Seventh Ave., between 55th and 56th Sts., (212) 582-7500
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I used to eat at Molyvos fairly often when I worked in midtown. It's an oasis.
Mmm, stifado, so good. For a downtown version Greek, go to Snack on Thompson.
They've opened a full-sized restaurant on Bedford called Snack Taverna. The avgolemoni (Greek version of chicken soup) at Snack could instigate vendettas.
The excellent chicken mageiritsa at Molyvos is a cross between avgolemoni and the Greek Easter stew, mageiritsa, substituting the traditional lamb heart, liver, intestines, and lungs with chicken.
Greek food stinks. There is no such thing as good greek food. It doesn't matter who prepares it, because the composition of a greek dish is inherently disgusting.
Obviously never nibbled keftedes and french fries cooked in olive oil while watching the sun set on the temple of poseiden at sunion.
If you want to eat better Greek go to Pylos on East 7th. Diane Kochilas continues to present the most interesting and eclectic dishes from the far corners of the country. Molyvos is good, but Pylos achieves greatness.
Bart, I am overjoyed to see that even special people get to voice an opinion on them thar internets.
Now go to your room.
So Greek food is good if there is a distraction?
So Greek food is good if there is a distraction?
Yes. Such entertainment as seeing an uncultured, fast-food-devouring American being processed on an iron maiden always improves the experience of a lavish Greek feast.
Wait a minute? You aren't an American? Or are you an American pretending not to be? Can I become cultured if I fry a russett in olive oil and watch the sun set on New Jersey?
Yes.