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Gothamist was meandering through Fairway recently and got stuck in the cheese section. Not that we mind getting stuck in Fairway's cheese section. Fairway's cheese guru, Steve Jenkins, has built a career of bringing world-class cheeses to the masses. Key to his approach: user-friendly descriptions of his favorite cheeses. Consider this label on a wedge of Delice de Bourgogne we picked up:
Fabolous (sic) triple-creme from France. This is what St. Andre tasted like ten years ago, before mass-production blandified it out of all recognition. If you like St. Andre, you'll love this.Insanely Rich and Decadent.
Steve didn't disappoint. The Delice de Bourgogne did remind us of our first taste of Saint Andre, ten years ago, in French Canada. Runny, slightly funky, and rich with its roughly 75% milk fat, this is a cheese we could get used to.
-- Delice de Bourgogne, $8.99/lb. at Fairway, Broadway at 74th Street. Pair with Burgundy wines: white when served as an hors d'oeuvre, red when served after the meal.
-- Get Steve Jenkins's Cheese Primer on Amazon.
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Oh my God, thank you Jeremy - I'm getting this on my next trip to Fairway...
Sounds good, but you know lots of cheese shops take a casual/conversational approach to their labels. Check out the Bedford Cheese shop for this phenomena next time you're over in Williamsburg.
There's a great article about Murray's Cheese shop in the Village in last week's New Yorker. . .
Ugh...Fairway is the CostCo of upscale cheese. Half their selection smells like it was stored in a toilet or a garbage can. Also, Jenkins is a hypocrite. He writes in his book that you should always have your cheese cut fresh for you, then proceeds to slice and plastic wrap 3/4 of the Fairway cheese. Maybe a cheesemonger in there somewhere, but this guy is still peddling out of a supermarket. Murray's. Nuff said.