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New critic Frank Bruni's premiere Times restaurant review is of Babbo, the crown jewel in chef Mario Batali and partner Joe Bastianich's restaurant empire. Bruni gives three stars, the same rating Ruth Reichl gave it that heady summer of 98 when it first opened (if SLNY were around then, they would have noted that the line was busy busy busy, and then when someone would pick up, the only table was for 10:30PM). But what Gothamist found most interesting was Bruni's thoughts about the differences between three- and four-star restaurants; right now, Babbo falls just short of four because of its ambience (loud music like the Black Crowes and Led Zeppelin from Batali's own iPod, a rushed and frenetic if extremely helpful staff). Bruni also comments on Batali's orange high-top sneakers as a sign of Batali's relaxed iconoclasm, which makes Gothamist demand a re-examination of the footwear of NYC chefs, which ran in the Times a couple years ago. The article pointed out how Batali liked to wear rubber clogs in the kitchen (because they are dishwashable) while Jean-Georges Vongerichten wore Prada shoes.
The Babbo website. And if you're in Seattle, check out Salumi, the cafe run by Batali's dad, Armandino. Cured meats, communal dining.
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This guy Bruni can do a hell of a restaurant review. Yes, MUG made fun of him today, but I disagree with their catty assessment. I thought the tone was appropriate and inviting, and the writing was colorful. His discussion on the ratings criteria was very insightful, and he gently assures that, as a three star restaurant, it's one of the best damn places to eat in New York. I eagerly await the next review, and this time not to make fun of spoons or Vongerichten fawning.
Hmm, a month for reservations... anyone free on July 9th?
I completely agree. who doesnt want to hate on food critics for their insanely awesome jobs? But Bruni's review was deft and insightful. Not that I wouldn't body check him out of his seat at Babbo for a bite of that goose liver ravioli.
Bruni is a seductive writer, his manipulation of language compliments the subject material.
Having had many a meal at the bar of Babbo, I definitely can relate to Bruni's' review - which manages to capture the food essence of Babbo, and hopefully of other resaurants that he'll review. When I read the review, I'm thinking about the the actual dishes, and spend less time rolling my eyes backward over the writing style of the reviewer. And yes, I also noticed the jarring music seletion...it could be lower by a couple of notches. But that's also the style of Mario as well, serious food with a twist of rebel and/or irreverence thrown in. And what also makes me feel ok to grab a spot at the bar while wearing flip-flops.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I'm so glad to know that I'm not the only one who still remembers the article on chef footwear. I clipped it and still have it.
i don't agree with bruni's distinction between a 3 and 4 star restaurant. why should the star be dependent upon having a quiet and stuffy atmosphere? So if they lowered the music and put a couple of inches between the tables Babbo would have four stars? Babbo is a reflection of Mario's personality...it's authentic, unique and the antithesis of old school French. So I guess I go there so frequently because it doesn's have the vanilla qualities of a stuffy french restaurant. Maybe the times' evaluation of what is considered excellent needs updating.
Joe, I agree - I rather have a meal at Babbo than Jean-Georges any day, because I like the warmth and energy at Babbo. But I can see how for Bruni, the experiene seemed more...leaden and transparent. Bruni's review is simply a reflection of his experiences, so as a middle-aged man, he might not like-a the rock.